The Beautiful Miraflores of Lima
One translation of Miraflores is ‘to watch flowers.’ This is very appropriate as the Miraflores District of Lima abounds with beautiful side streets and neighborhoods.
Pleasant aromas float through many Miraflores neighborhoods due to the too numerous to count restaurants, bakeries and, yes, flowers! But this isn’t the only reason why the Miraflores District is a great place to start your exploration of Lima, and then Peru.
Jorge Chavez to Miraflores District
Almost all international travelers fly into Peru via Lima and the Jorge Chavez International Airport. We were no exception. We had an easy, direct flight from our home airport to Lima via LATAM airlines. [Lima is one hour behind New York.]
Arriving at 5:30 AM we found the airport already bustling with activity. Our driver (arranged for by G-Adventures) met us in the airport’s public area. Before we knew it we were loaded into the waiting van, and underway to the Hotel Antigua Miraflores.
Merging into the traffic found us in the throes of rush hour. The beach-side drive normally provides a time-saving alternative between the airport and the Miraflores District. But not this day. A wreck on the ocean drive backed up the traffic–big time.
On the upside, the slower pace allowed plenty of time to absorb the numerous and varied neighborhoods along our route.
Best Way to Experience Miraflores–Walk
Using the Hotel Antigua Miraflores as our base of operations, we decided to explore the surrounding area by foot first. Though we were a bit woosy from the overnight flight, we knew the best way to adjust quickly to a new area is to get in a bit of physical exercise, and soak up some rays.
I’d read about a pyramid located nearby and I couldn’t wait to see it. But first, a gal’s gotta eat!
So Many Places to Dine & So Little Time
I won’t attempt to name every place we ate while in Miraflores, but I will tell you that at every-single-restaurant the food was delicious–each with a different specialty. But we especially enjoyed the Delfino Mar Restaurant.
Speaking of wonderful culinary experiences. If you are a foodie, Central is a must. I tell you this because we missed out. You see, we learned of Central from our dentist…just a few days before departing for Peru. She raved about it. What she forgot to tell us is that it stays booked up approximately two months out.
So just to be on the safe side, make your reservations as soon as you know your travel plans. During our visit the Central restaurant was located within walking distance of our hotel in Miraflores. However, it recently moved to a new location in the Barranco neighborhood of Lima.
Miraflores Has A Pyramid!
The pyramid complex is known as Huaca Pullana. Studied since the late 1800s, serious, scientific exploration of the site did not begin until the late 1990s. The Lima Culture (200AD-700AD) began the construction. Priests ruled an extensive portion of the area’s surrounding valleys from Huaca Pucllana.
A wall divides the complex into two major sections. The eastern section held the priest’s administrative offices and living quarters. The western section contains the pyramid.
Lima Has Mummies
The Lima Culture and numerous follow-on cultures layered the pyramid higher and higher with each level containing well-wrapped mummies of their most notable citizens. Each in their own dirt compartment surrounded by their most precious items.
Our guide pointed out one very interesting detail about the construction of the pyramid. No matter the culture in control of Huaca Pucllana, each used the same orientation for the sun-baked bricks.
They stacked their bricks on the small end, with plenty of space for mud filler between each brick. Why, you might ask.
Hint: earth-quakes
It’s All In The Details
Yep, by placing the bricks on end, and by providing plenty of space between the bricks for movement, the ancient architects greatly minimized the risk of damage to the structure.
Oh, and another interesting tid-bit. The fact that the pyramid is constructed almost completely of sun-baked, mud bricks, and is still standing after more than 1,300 years–further attests to the dry, dry climate of the area.
There’s a small admission fee to gain access to the grounds. There’s also a small museum on site. Make sure to sign up for the 45-minute tour, and to visit their museum. It’s not large, but it is very informative.
And for a really unique experience, come back for a night-time tour followed by dinner at the onsite restaurant. You’ll be glad you did.
Want to learn more?
Did you know that Lima’s architecture is very different from that of other Peruvian cities? I’ll explain why next time. Until then, A Curious Trekker signing off!
