Securing boats for the night in El Chaco Harbor, Paracas, Pisco Province, Peru.
Paracas, Peru is the perfect first stop to experience the variety of experiences Peru has to offer.
Paracus, also known as El Chaco, is often sold as a (long) day trip out of Lima, but I strongly encourage you to make it (at least) an over-night experience.
Staying overnight in Paracas gives ample opportunity to explore everything the surrounding area has to offer.
Paracas Has it All
If you read the Lima Museums entry you will be familiar with the name Paracas. Many of the Lima museums feature textiles, grave goods and bodily adornments excavated on the Wari Kayan necropolis on the Paracas Peninsula.
Taken from a mural painted on a wall along the boardwalk.
Paracas is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site complete with access to unique wildlife, beaches, restaurants, important archaeological zones AND thrill seeking activities.
That’s how we felt when trying to make a decision on which museums to see during our limited time in Lima. That’s because Lima is a museum heaven.
The Larco Museum gallery areas are very inviting.
Museums Enhance Understanding
When traveling to a destination for the first time, especially to a foreign destination, my husband and I make a point to visit as many in-country museums as time allows. We prefer to front load the museums in an attempt to give us a better understanding of the significance of the locations and culture(s) we are about to experience. This is in addition to the reading and research we do prior to leaving our home base.
Arriving Early Gives Flexibility
As mentioned earlier, we arrived in Lima a couple of days before the G Adventures tour scheduled meeting date.
This not only gave us plenty of time to explore Lima, but also gave us plenty of time to visit several great museums.
The Larco Museum has walk-through visible storage for some 30,000 ancient pottery artifacts.
Choosing the Museums
We visited three stand-alone museums during our free time in Lima: National Museum of the Archaeology, Anthropology and History of Peru (NMAAHP); the Larco Museum; and the Gold Museum of Peru and Arms of the World. We also took the tour of the Church of San Francisco catacombs, and the house where Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin lived. The house is adjacent to the NMAAHP museum.
This unku is an excellent example of a Paracas culture tunic.
Gold Museum of Peru
Let’s start with the Gold Museum of Peru and Arms of the World. Located in the Monterrico neighborhood of the Surco District, it represents the private collection assembled by Miguel Mujica Gallo. In general, it’s open from 10:30 to 6:00 pm daily.
This is all you get from the Gold Museum of Peru. They didn’t allow photos inside. Moi grinning big and my husband, John.
Lima is HUGE. Inhabited by more people than New York City, Lima is loaded with Neo-classical, Gothic, Baroque and Republican architecture. The historic center of Lima is a must-see. However, I found Lima a very different experience, both architecturally, and aesthetically from the rest of Peru.
Cathedral of Lima on Plaza Mayor.The Lima skyline when looking up from Parque de la Muralla, Lima.
Lima, UNESCO World Heritage Site
The historic center of Lima (Ciudad de los Reye) is a short cab ride from the Miraflores District and is a ‘must see.’ This is not just because it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s because it’s beautiful—both by day and by night.
Lima is H U G E
The population estimate for metropolitan Lima is slightly over 12 million. Compare that to New York City with 8.6 million. (As of July 2017).
To put that number in perspective, close to one-third of Peru’s entire population lives in the Lima metropolitan area.
Sample of Lima traffic.
Lima Districts
I should probably take a moment here to explain how Lima is organized. Lima is divided into 43 districts with the oldest (Carabayllo) created in 1821. The newest district (Santa Anita) was created as recently as 1989.
According to Wikipedia, 33 of the districts make up the urban area of Lima, while the remaining districts are sparsely populated, being rural, desert and mountainous areas.
Don’t miss the daily changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace, the official residence of Peru’s President. Originally constructed in 1535, it has been repaired, rebuilt and restored numerous times over the centuries due to damage from earthquakes.
One translation of Miraflores is ‘to watch flowers.’ This is very appropriate as the Miraflores District of Lima abounds with beautiful side streets and neighborhoods.
A beautiful cake made to honor Mom. Just one treat at a Miraflores bakery.
Pleasant aromas float through many Miraflores neighborhoods due to the too numerous to count restaurants, bakeries and, yes, flowers! But this isn’t the only reason why the Miraflores District is a great place to start your exploration of Lima, and then Peru.
Jorge Chavez to Miraflores District
Almost all international travelers fly into Peru via Lima and the Jorge Chavez International Airport. We were no exception. We had an easy, direct flight from our home airport to Lima via LATAM airlines. [Lima is one hour behind New York.]
Husband holding our place in line for a 10 PM departure.
Arriving at 5:30 AM we found the airport already bustling with activity. Our driver (arranged for by G-Adventures) met us in the airport’s public area. Before we knew it we were loaded into the waiting van, and underway to the Hotel Antigua Miraflores.
Traffic make you thirsty? No problem!So many balloons, so little time.
Merging into the traffic found us in the throes of rush hour. The beach-side drive normally provides a time-saving alternative between the airport and the Miraflores District. But not this day. A wreck on the ocean drive backed up the traffic–big time.
Interesting mural. I have no explanation.Businesses are bustling. Banners are everywhere.
On the upside, the slower pace allowed plenty of time to absorb the numerous and varied neighborhoods along our route.
A mini-parade on way to celebrate Mother’s Day.
Best Way to Experience Miraflores–Walk
Miraflores District sits high above the ocean highway.
Using the Hotel Antigua Miraflores as our base of operations, we decided to explore the surrounding area by foot first. Though we were a bit woosy from the overnight flight, we knew the best way to adjust quickly to a new area is to get in a bit of physical exercise, and soak up some rays.
Hotel Antigua Miraflores by night. And yes, I meant to take this photo–just like this. (That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.)
I’d read about a pyramid located nearby and I couldn’t wait to see it. But first, a gal’s gotta eat!
So Many Places to Dine & So Little Time
I won’t attempt to name every place we ate while in Miraflores, but I will tell you that at every-single-restaurant the food was delicious–each with a different specialty. But we especially enjoyed the Delfino Mar Restaurant.
Hamming it up in front of Delfino Mar Restaurant.Lunch at Delfino Mar. All English menus were occupied, so I had no idea what I was ordering, but it turned out to be absolutely delicious!
Speaking of wonderful culinary experiences. If you are a foodie, Central is a must. I tell you this because we missed out. You see, we learned of Central from our dentist…just a few days before departing for Peru. She raved about it. What she forgot to tell us is that it stays booked up approximately two months out.
We happened upon a great arts & crafts show on one of the busy plazas.Hotel Antigua Miraflores bartender conjuring up a Peruvian specialty–Pisco Sour. To make: Pisco, lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white, shake it til it froths, pour, garnish with bitters.
So just to be on the safe side, make your reservations as soon as you know your travel plans. During our visit the Central restaurant was located within walking distance of our hotel in Miraflores. However, it recently moved to a new location in the Barranco neighborhood of Lima.
Miraflores Has A Pyramid!
Exhibit showing daily life at Huaca Pucllana.
The pyramid complex is known as Huaca Pullana. Studied since the late 1800s, serious, scientific exploration of the site did not begin until the late 1990s. The Lima Culture (200AD-700AD) began the construction. Priests ruled an extensive portion of the area’s surrounding valleys from Huaca Pucllana.
Ground/restaurant level of Huaca PucllanaThe one photo of me that came out.
A wall divides the complex into two major sections. The eastern section held the priest’s administrative offices and living quarters. The western section contains the pyramid.
Lima Has Mummies
The Lima Culture and numerous follow-on cultures layered the pyramid higher and higher with each level containing well-wrapped mummies of their most notable citizens. Each in their own dirt compartment surrounded by their most precious items.
The deceased wrapped in layers of textiles and fiber.Each subsequent generation or culture layered on top of those before.
Our guide pointed out one very interesting detail about the construction of the pyramid. No matter the culture in control of Huaca Pucllana, each used the same orientation for the sun-baked bricks.
They stacked their bricks on the small end, with plenty of space for mud filler between each brick. Why, you might ask.
Hint: earth-quakes
Bricks positioned on end to resist earthquake damage.Sample of dried brick layers in wall of Huaca Pucllana.
It’s All In The Details
Yep, by placing the bricks on end, and by providing plenty of space between the bricks for movement, the ancient architects greatly minimized the risk of damage to the structure.
Oh, and another interesting tid-bit. The fact that the pyramid is constructed almost completely of sun-baked, mud bricks, and is still standing after more than 1,300 years–further attests to the dry, dry climate of the area.
Exceptionally playful Peruvian Hairless dog entertaining itself on pyramid grounds. Considered by many to be the sacred dog of the Incas.
There’s a small admission fee to gain access to the grounds. There’s also a small museum on site. Make sure to sign up for the 45-minute tour, and to visit their museum. It’s not large, but it is very informative.
And for a really unique experience, come back for a night-time tour followed by dinner at the onsite restaurant. You’ll be glad you did.
Support beams atop the Huaca Pucllana Pyramid at sunset.
Did you know that Lima’s architecture is very different from that of other Peruvian cities? I’ll explain why next time. Until then, A Curious Trekker signing off!
Lima is a great place to start your Peruvian adventure. If you start here, make sure to schedule plenty of time to visit the museums and explore the history of Lima, and the area. This provides a great base of knowledge to build upon as you explore the rest of the country.
The skyline when looking up from Parque de la Muralla, Lima.
In an earlier posting I mentioned that most folks, when hearing, “Peru,” respond with “Inca!” However, at least 10 documented civilizations occupied Peru prior to the Inca. With evidence of these cultures dating back to at least 2,000 BCE.
The Chimu peoples were highly skilled artisans and considered premier metalworkers. (Larco Museum/Museo Larco)
The ancient Peruvian civilizations most often referenced in the museums are Chavin, Paracas, Nasca, Huari-Tiahuanaco, Moches, and, finally Inca.
Example of Moche (culture) portrait vessel. [Larco Museum/Museo Larco]In addition to the Inca, the Chavin and the Huari-Tiahuanaco also achieved pan-Andean empires.
This is a vibrant example of Paracas weaving capabilities. (National Museum of Archeology, Anthropology and History of Peru/Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia del Peru (MNAAHP))
Use Frommers.com to start your research on the impressive accomplishments of these ancient Peruvian civilizations.
All this talk of history makes me think I should share a little of what I learned about Lima both before and during the trip.
The beautiful diversity of the Peru’s high plains landscape. The only thing missing is shade.
In the previous entry I shared 3 of the 6 Tips Before Traveling to Peru. If you’re just now joining in, then click here to find guidelines and links for vaccinations, packing light and dealing with high altitudes.
So here we go with tips 4, 5 and 6:
Earthquakes, Sunburns, and Mosquitoes.
But first! Let’s start with a pop quiz
* * * QUIZTIME** *
Flowers of Huaca Pucllana ceremonial center, Mira Flores, Lima. Notice the sun-dried brick wall in the background.
True or False It never rains in Lima.
[You’ll find the answer at the end of today’s blog.]
Peru Tip #4 Sun Protection
The Peruvian Sun Use to Warm, Now It Burns
That’s the gist of a common saying among inhabitants of the Peruvian altiplano as reported in this 2016 Newsweek article.
You don’t’ need me to tell you that if you’re gonna be outside, sunscreen, wide-brim hats, and long-sleeved shirts are always a good idea. (And don’t forget the sunglasses!)
However, sun protection is imperative when traveling in the southern climes, and especially when traveling in the higher altitudes of Peru.
Sitting at 12,507 feet Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable body of water.
Yep, Peru has it all—gentle and friendly people, an ancient and rich culture, awe-inspiring scenery, earthquakes, over 3,000 miles of coastline, extreme altitudes, incredible food, and more micro-climates than you can shake a stick at. Use these 6 tips before traveling to Peru and don’t miss out!
Paragliders ridge soaring above the ocean bluff outside Lima. Part of 3,000+ miles of Peruvian coastline.
Wouldn’t it be a shame to miss out because of poor, prior planning?
Through my pre-trip research, and experiences during my Peru trek, I compiled these 6 tips before traveling in Peru. Hopefully they’ll help keep you healthy, and happy, during your time there.
As I was organizing this entry a quote from the movie THE PRINCESS BRIDE whispered in my head,
“If you haven’t got your health, you haven’t got anything.”
Planning a trip to Peru (or any special destination) should involve more than booking a reservation and packing a bag. Researching the country, culture and history will help you choose the perfect travel experience and itinerary.
The Peruvian Trek Takes Shape
In this entry we will walk through how I planned for my Peruvian dream trip. I researched the culture with the help of books by Hiram Bingham and Mark Adams. I visited museum exhibits like “The Great Inka Road” and used Google to find our perfect Peruvian guided tour experience.
Not the Original Plan, But Better
As mentioned in the last entry, the seeds for visiting Peru were planted somewhere in the deep recesses of my childhood, but it lay dormant for decades.
When I originally pitched the idea of visiting Peru, it was, admittedly, a 1-demensional concept. My plan: 14 days hiking various portions of the Inca Trail, culminating in the exploration of Manchu Picchu. Period.
But as is often the case, the moment you state your intent out loud to the universe, it begins to change.
This time it was not the universe that changed my plans, it was actually my husband’s fault. What he said was, “I’m sure there is more to Peru than just the Inca trail.”
I was initially miffed at his insensitivity. However, his simple statement actually snapped me out of my tunnel vision. I was suddenly free to explore a world of possibilities.
My first post–EVER. Join me and become A Curious Trekker too!
Welcome Everyone!
Wow. It’s actually happening. I’m writing my first blog entry—ever.
I sit here on a (very) dreary spring day. The sky is grey, the rain steady, and my thoughts are wandering off to treks in other climes. Warmer, sunnier climes to be specific.
But then that is one of the points of travel, isn’t it? To give yourself real images and adventures to fill your daydreams? And most importantly, adventures where YOU are the main character.
