Lima is Museum Heaven

Lima-So many museums, so little time.

That’s how we felt when trying to make a decision on which museums to see during our limited time in Lima.  That’s because Lima is a museum heaven.

The Larco Museum gallery areas are very inviting.

Museums Enhance Understanding

When traveling to a destination for the first time, especially to a foreign destination, my husband and I make a point to visit as many in-country museums as time allows.  We prefer to front load the museums in an attempt to give us a better understanding of the significance of the locations and culture(s) we are about to experience. This is in addition to the reading and research we do prior to leaving our home base.

Arriving Early Gives Flexibility

As mentioned earlier, we arrived in Lima a couple of days before the G Adventures tour scheduled meeting date.

This not only gave us plenty of time to explore Lima, but also gave us plenty of time to visit several great museums.

Visible storage in Larco Musuem, Lima, Peru.
The Larco Museum has walk-through visible storage for some 30,000 ancient pottery artifacts.

Choosing the Museums

We visited three stand-alone museums during our free time in Lima: National Museum of the Archaeology, Anthropology and History of Peru (NMAAHP); the Larco Museum; and the Gold Museum of Peru and Arms of the World. We also took the tour of the Church of San Francisco catacombs, and the house where Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin lived.  The house is adjacent to the NMAAHP museum.

This unku is an excellent example of a Paracas culture tunic.

Gold Museum of Peru

Let’s start with the Gold Museum of Peru and Arms of the World.  Located in the Monterrico neighborhood of the Surco District, it represents the private collection assembled by Miguel Mujica Gallo.  In general, it’s open from 10:30 to 6:00 pm daily. 

This is all you get from the Gold Museum of Peru. They didn’t allow photos inside. Moi grinning big and my husband, John.

Scuttlebutt on the Gold Museum of Peru

Several years ago an expert in the field raised the question the authenticity of the “artifacts” on display in the museum.  I did not know of the controversy before the visit, but learned of it later.  Seems the gold and silver used in many of the artifacts on display indicated the artifacts were not made during the time period claimed.  The museum now labels its objects as either authentic or ‘reproductions.’

Lima’s Gold Museum Still a Keeper

Even knowing what I know now, I still recommend a visit. It’s not every day you get to walk through a multi-room, underground vault surrounded by gold and silver objects.  

Example of quipu used by ancient Incans to record numeric data and other records. The size, number, shape and placement of knots as well as color variations all had meaning.

And I really enjoyed the small gift shop. I purchased a few boxes of muna tea (a Peruvian mint tea good for digestion)–and a really cute t-shirt featuring quipu that I didn’t see for sale anywhere else on the trip.  

On your way out, make sure to explore the Arms of the World exhibit. In addition to gold and silver artifacts,  Gallo collected thousands of examples of weaponry from around the world.

Entrance to the National Museum of Archeology, Anthropology and History of Peru (NMAAHP).

National Museum of Archaeology, Etc.

This was my favorite museum. First off, it is housed in an old colonial mansion.  Therefore, there are many nooks and crannies and architectural features to explore as you wander seamlessly between indoor and outdoor exhibits.  The NMAAHP also happens to be the oldest state museum, having been founded in 1826. You’ll find it in the Pueblo Lima District on Plaza Bolivar. It’s open daily between 8:45 AM and 5:00 PM.

Translation, Please.

We arrived at the museum a few minutes before it officially opened, and though they sold us an admission ticket, we could not enter the museum proper.  It was during those few minutes that we realized very few exhibit descriptions provided English translations. My husband good naturally pointed out that, for once, we would make it out in a timely fashion as we ran no risk of my getting bogged down in reading each-and-every display description.  

What a wonderful guide/translator. He added so much to our NMAAHP visit. I’m so sorry I can’t remember his name.

English Speaking Guide A Winner

But no sooner had he uttered those words, he started reading through a flier he’d picked up at the entrance.  Though the ticket sales staff never mentioned it, it turns out that for a very reasonable fee, they offered translators (Spanish, English and Italian) to accompany you through the museum.  

We had to wait a few more minutes for our translator to arrive.  After introductions we negotiated a fee for a 2-hour tour. However, it was 3 hours later before we parted company. (And, yes, we made good on the extra hour—plus a tip.)  

The guide/translator was very knowledgeable, and willing to share as much or as little information as you desired.  

This is a vibrant example of Paracas weaving capabilities.

 

The Paracas culture were incredible weavers and were known for their textiles.

Museum Provides Alot in a Small Package

The museum looks small—but it is packed.  The numerous galleries include Lithics (related to stone), Ceramics, Metal, History, Human Remains (not as ghoulish as it sounds), Organic, and Textile.

Male Peruvian artisan demonstrating modern weaving techniques.
Artisan demonstrating modern weaving techniques at NMAAHP.

Even though it is the oldest state museum in the country, most of its displays are state of the art, with artisans scattered throughout the galleries and the property, demonstrating ancient crafts and skills.

We learned SO MUCH about Peru, its history, culture and hopes for the future that we really didn’t need to visit another museum.  But I’m so glad we did.

The Elegant Larco

Rafael Larco Hoyle moved to Lima in the 1950s, bringing the Larco Museum collection with him. He then acquired and renovated this 18th century mansion to house the collection.

Make sure you carve out plenty of time to visit the Larco Museum, otherwise known as the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum of Archeology.  You don’t want to rush the experience.

This portrait vessel (Moche) was the first given to Rafael Larco Hoyle by his father in 1923.

 

Another example of an intricately carved portrait vessel. They seem so life-like that they must have been created using particular individuals as models.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Located in Lima’s Pueblo Libre district on Bolivar Avenue, it is housed in a striking, white building that dates back to Peru’s viceroyalty period. It’s open from 9:00 AM-10:00 PM daily.

Example of how the ancient Peruvians clothed and adorned the mummy bundles for the afterlife. Larco Museum, Lima.

 

Example of the incredible craftsmanship used in ancient Peruvian jewelry. This is one of a set of earrings on display in the Larco Museum permanent collection.

 

Pre-Columbian Art & Jewelry

As you explore the well-organized and beautifully displayed exhibits of pre-Columbian art, keep in mind that you are also standing atop the remains of a pre-Columbian pyramid.

Silver headdress, earrings and nose adornment, Larco Museum, Lima.
In addition to gold artifacts, the Larco Museum also displays many silver items of personal adornment. Silver was used to symbolize the moon.

 

Gold headdress and earrings from Larco Museum, Peru.
Lima’s Larco Museum contains numerous examples of Pre-Columbian gold adornment and other jewelry. Gold was symbolic of the sun.

Did You Say Erotic Ceramics?

In addition to an expansive collection of jewelry, worn and used by pre-Columbian rulers, it also boasts the world’s largest collection of erotic ceramics.

The Larco Museum’s gallery of erotic pottery. demonstrates how the ancients recognized the power and necessity of joining together in order for life to regenerate.

 

The Larco Museum erotic pottery gallery is internationally recognized. While some pieces wow you with their artistry, others just make you realize that not much has changed over the centuries. This one gave me a good chuckle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AND plan to take in brunch, lunch and/or even dinner at the Larco Café-Restaurant.  

Savor the Larco Cafe

Larco Cafe Restaurant terrace seating.
The beautiful and inviting terrace of the Larco Café Restaurant.

Indoor seating is available, but you’re missing out if you don’t take advantage of the soothing ambiance of the covered terrace that wraps around their beautifully groomed garden.  

The Larco Cafe menu boasts flavors from all around Peru, and they even have options for children.  

Well, that’s it for Lima.  Next stop…..Paracas and the beauty, mystery and history of the Ballestas Islands.  

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