Paracus– Peru–Perfect
Paracas, Peru is the perfect first stop to experience the variety of experiences Peru has to offer.
Paracus, also known as El Chaco, is often sold as a (long) day trip out of Lima, but I strongly encourage you to make it (at least) an over-night experience.
Staying overnight in Paracas gives ample opportunity to explore everything the surrounding area has to offer.
Paracas Has it All
If you read the Lima Museums entry you will be familiar with the name Paracas. Many of the Lima museums feature textiles, grave goods and bodily adornments excavated on the Wari Kayan necropolis on the Paracas Peninsula.
Paracas is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site complete with access to unique wildlife, beaches, restaurants, important archaeological zones AND thrill seeking activities.
Additionally, Paracas —a beautiful desert peninsula, ironically has the only official marine reserve in Peru.
Paracas, Ports & Pisco
Paracas is located on the south coast, in the Paracas District of the Pisco Province of the Ica Region of Peru. (Phew.)
The Pisco Province also loaned its name to the Pisco Sour—the national drink of Peru.
But Paracas is most notable as a jumping off port (like what I did there?) for boat access to the Ballestas Islands.
The Quaint Port of Paracas
The port of Paracas has a few shops, a few restaurants—and a lot of boats. We arrived at the port late in the afternoon after checking in at our hotel and making an easy, lazy walk over from our hotel.
Though John and I did not need one, several in our group were looking for hats to wear for our boat ride to the Ballestas Islands. We were heading out really early the next morning so this was the only time available to shop.
You see, there are more birds on and around the Ballestas Islands than you can even imagine.
And since birds fly, but bird poop doesn’t—everyone needed a nice wide-brimmed hat. And windbreakers or anything plastic to throw over your shoulders is also recommended.
I’ll Have a Pisco Please!
But first, a quick snack on some tangy ceviche, and my favorite—causa—washed down by a delightful Pisco sour.
Peru claims the Pisco Sour as its national drink. (But so does Chile.) Though often a heated topic of discussion between natives of the two countries, I believe the evidence points to Peru as the originator of what we now know as the Pisco Sour. (And a lot of experts in such things agree with me.)
Just in case you’ve never heard of it, Pisco is a clear brandy made from distilled grapes. The earliest references to the spirit date its origins to the mid 1760s. It came into existence because Spain would not allow wine production in the Americas. (It didn’t want competition with its own wine exports.)
Pisco has a very interesting history, closely tied to the history of Peru and the Viceroylalty of New Spain. It’s worth a quick read.
Paracas Sunsets
Not much to say here. I’ll let a few of my favorite photos speak for themselves.
The Mysterious Candelabra
If you keep your eyes open there’s as much to see on the way to and from the islands as there is once you arrive at the islands. Possible sightings can include dolphins, whales, pelicans, flamingos, Inca terns, sea lions, leatherneck turtles and more. And that includes the geoglyph named the Candelabra.
It’s just that—a mystery. This geoglyph, created by cutting 2-foot deep trenches in hardened soil, is so large that it can be seen from 12 miles out to sea. To date there is no agreement on its origin or purpose. But pots and shards found in the area date the site to at least 200 BC.
The Ballestas Islands
They’re For the Birds (With a few sea lions and Humboldt penguins thrown in for good measure.)
We all agreed that it was worth getting up early to make sure we were the first to the islands. And I’m glad we did. It’s a fairly long boat ride out to the islands, so make sure to take your usual precautions if you (like me) suffer from motion sickness. (And don’t forget a snack bar.)
You’ll also spend some time sitting on the waters just off the islands in order to take photos and just plain take in the view. I mention this because, depending on the direction of the wind, the boat’s engine exhaust can become an issue. So keep that in mind when choosing your seat on the boat. (I had to move.)
Wildlife And Guano Galore
The reason this area is so rich in wildlife is due to the collision of the cold waters of the Humboldt Current with the warmer tropical currents. This clash of currents causes an up-swelling of nutrient rich waters. This, in turn, provides food for the critters eaten by both wildlife AND humans.
It’s Alive!!
The closer you get to the islands the more it seems that every surface and rock face is shimmering. That’s due to the light reflecting off the fluttering wings of thousands, upon thousands of birds.
Lifting off, landing, hopping, shoving, preening—constant movement. They occupy every square inch of available space. It’s amazing to behold.
The Guanay Cormorant
It’s been said the Guanay Cormorant is THE most important producer of guano in South America. Tradition has it that the Guanay cormorant droppings were such an important fertilizer for the Andean peoples that the bird was protected by Incan rulers.
By the early 1800s news of the fertile properties of guano reached the rest of the world. Brits, Germans and even American ships would wait offshore for (up to) months until it was their turn to load up.
The rise of the guano trade is actually a fascinating period in Peruvian history. You can read more about it here and here .
Quite the place to stop, isn’t it? But I am stopping here, for now.
Looking back it is hard to believe we did so much in less than 24 hours, and that included a good night’s sleep.
Next stop: Sand surfing–sort of, a beautiful oasis, and the largest sand dunes I have EVER seen.
If you haven't already, check out About Me and a few Travel Tips I've picked up along the way.
